I have felt better than I did on Monday, sitting in a bright orange chair (courtesy of the good people at Fanta) outside the Guelaguetza stadium in a Coca-Cola red haze. From within the stadium came the blaring band music that had been tormenting me for hours (and has been haunting me ever since). On my list of things I don't want to do on day four of a fever, let's add talking to strangers under a scorching sun and the merciless loudspeakers blasting festive brass music.
The Guelaguetza is an enormous cultural festival in Oaxaca, and the subject of my current research project. I've been reading up on it and conducting interviews with locals and tourists to get their take on the festival and its attendants. It's interesting stuff -- but once my temperature climbs above 99, I find my patience for anything decreases significantly. Fortunately, the rest of the week I've been much healthier and my interviews, for the most part, are going well.
The Guelaguetza is rooted in a pre-Colombian celebration and its name comes from a Zapotec word that refers to the act of reciprocal gift-giving. It's evolved over the centuries, influenced by Spanish Christian colonialists and modern tourism policies. Today it consists of representatives from several of Oaxaca's indigenous communities demonstrating traditional dress, dance and music. At the end of each performance, the dancers throw gifts into the crowd: sombreros, nuts, produce -- generally something representative of their region ... at one performance I narrowly ducked a cucumber.
The Guelaguetza performances take place during two Mondays in July, and the Official Guelaguetza occurs on a stage at a soccer stadium. (There actually is an official Guelaguetza stadium on the hill above town, but there have been some issues with roof construction this year, so it's at the stadium instead.)
In addition to the Official Guelaguetza, there's the "popular" or people's Guelaguetza, at the Technological Institute. It's organized by the teachers (the wonderful people who brought you the protests in June) and has the same activities, with more political slogans.
I'm attaching pictures of both Guelaguetza festivities for your perusal. Please enjoy!